This sweetened, spiced soy sauce is the secret ingredient in the glorious, garlicky dressing used for Sichuan wontons.

Light soy sauce, tamari soy sauce and Sichuan pepper are available at select well-stocked grocery stores as well as Asian markets.

Preparation: 8 minutes

Makes about 2/3 cup soy sauce

¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons light or tamari soy sauce

1/3 cinnamon stick or a piece of cassia bark

1½ teaspoon fennel seeds

½ star anise

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns

1/3 ounce piece of ginger, crushed slightly

3 tablespoons brown sugar

In a medium bowl, stir together the soy sauce, cinnamon stick, fennel seeds, star anise, peppercorns, ginger and brown sugar until the sugar is dissolved.

Cover and store in a cool, dry place until ready to use.