Open, sesame seeds
Sesame seeds have been a major part of the world's cooking for a very long time. Archaeologists have found traces of sesame seeds dating back nearly 5,000 years. Ancient cultures began growing the plant specifically for the flavorful oil in its seeds more than 3,000 years ago. Though sesame seeds are primarily grown in Southeast Asia and Africa, they are used nearly everywhere throughout the world, from Sweden to Argentina.
For my culinary exploration of all things sesame, I decided to try a bread that is ubiquitous in Turkey, a chilled vegetable dish from China and a sweet bread from a cookbook based on the movie “Casablanca.”
Jan's Sesame Bread looked especially intriguing. Three ingredients make the bread so tempting and unusual. One is prunes, the second is yogurt and the third is tea.
The prunes are softened and cut into small treasures found throughout the loaves. The yogurt flavors and softens the crumb. And the tea softens and flavors the prunes, giving a hint of tannin to cut their sweetness.
It's the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
The Turkish bread, simit, is so popular that bakeries make it twice a day. It is sold from stalls, carts and even off the back of bicycles.
The bread is circular and not too tall, and is covered in the sesame seeds that provide most of its signature flavor. The crust can be hard (apparently, in some parts of the country it is harder than others) but the inside is chewy. I have no proof, but I've always thought that simit was a precursor to bagels.
Their appearance alone is irresistible, and their taste is great.
For a savory treat, I looked to China, the country that uses sesame the most — in both seed and oil form — in everyday meals. My interest was piqued by Cold Sesame Broccoli. It begins with broccoli that has been peeled to make it exceptionally tender and flavorful, and blanched, and then mixed together with sesame seeds, sesame oil, soy sauce, peanut oil, garlic and green onions.
Served cold, it is the perfect mixture of Chinese flavors, but if you want to add a little ginger or pepper flakes to it, I, for one, would not object.
Yield: 61 packet (¼ ounce) active dry yeast½ teaspoon granulated sugar¾ cup lukewarm water, 105 to 115 degrees1 pound (3¾ cups) all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon honey or granulated sugar1 tablespoon melted butter or sunflower oilA few drops olive or sunflower oil1 egg, beaten1 cup sesame seedsMix together the yeast and ½ teaspoon granulated sugar in a little of the lukewarm water. Let stand 10 minutes until frothy.Sift the flour with the salt into a bowl and stir in the honey or additional tablespoon of sugar.Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast, tablespoon of oil and the rest of the water. Use your hands to draw the flour in from the sides.Add more water if necessary, a tablespoon or two at a time; it may take an additional ½ cup or more.The dough will be very stiff. Knead well until the dough is very smooth, springy and elastic, about 15 minutes.Roll the ball of dough in a few drops of olive oil in a bowl and cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap. Allow to rise until it doubles in size, about 2 hours.Punch down dough, knead a few times, and roll into a log. Divide the log into 6 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a tight ball and let rest under a slightly damp towel for 30 minutes.Roll each ball into a 14-inch long rope. Hold down one end of the rope with one hand while twisting it a few turns with the other.Then form this twisted rope into a ring, pressing and rolling the overlapping ends together on the work surface with one hand to seal.Place rings on 2 greased baking sheets, cover with a damp towel and let rest 1 hour.Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread sesame seeds on a plate. Brush each ring with the beaten egg and then dip into the sesame seeds, coating it heavily.Rotate each ring gently through your hands, enlarging it into a 7-inch circle. Place the rings back on the baking sheets and let rest 15 minutes or until well puffed.Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until they are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.
Yield: 2 loaves, about 20 servings½ cup sesame seeds3 cups water4 tea bags1 pound (2 cups) pitted prunes¾ cup vegetable oil1 cup granulated sugar5 eggs1½ cups plain yogurt4 cups all-purpose flour½ teaspoon salt1 tablespoon baking sodaPreheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour 2 medium loaf pans (5 cups or 1¼ liter capacity).Place sesame seeds over medium heat in a small skillet. Cook, shaking pan occasionally, until seeds become fragrant and turn a couple of shades darker, about 3 to 5 minutes. Watch carefully to avoid burning.Bring water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat. Add tea bags and prunes. Let steep 15 minutes. Remove and discard tea bags. Drain prunes and cut into 1-inch pieces.In a large mixing bowl, beat oil and sugar at medium speed. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add yogurt and prunes. Mix well.In a separate bowl, mix flour, salt, baking soda and sesame seeds. Fold dry ingredients into batter until just incorporated. Pour into prepared loaf pans.Bake until cake tester or toothpick inserted into center of bread comes out clean, about 40 minutes.Let cool in pans 5 minutes. Unmold and let cool on a wire rack. Serve with butter and honey.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings1 tablespoon sesame seeds1½ pounds (approximately) broccoli1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil2 teaspoons sesame oil2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic1½ tablespoons light soy sauce or regular soy sauce2 tablespoons finely chopped green onionsPlace sesame seeds over medium heat in a small skillet. Cook, shaking pan occasionally, until seeds become fragrant and turn a couple of shades darker, about 3 to 5 minutes. Watch carefully to avoid burning. Set aside.Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.Cut off the broccoli heads and break them into small florets. Use a vegetable peeler to peel broccoli stems and then cut them into bite-sized pieces.Cook all broccoli pieces in the boiling water for 4 to 5 minutes; then drain and dry them in a colander or salad spinner. Place in a clean bowl.Mix the remaining ingredients, including the sesame seeds, in a small bowl. When well-mixed, pour over broccoli and toss.Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold. May be served the next day.
