Given the size of my sweet tooth (think saber tooth tiger), I have myriad sweeteners in my cupboards. White, brown and coconut sugars, crunchy turbinado, honey, date syrup and molasses, they line the shelves alongside a curious specimen that looks like a gnome's hat.

That hat is piloncillo and is a favorite, not only for its deep caramel flavor, but because it's as close as you can get to biting down on a stalk of sugarcane (a treat I'd occasionally enjoy as a child).

Piloncillo is the result of boiled down cane sugar juice. Its flavor is complex, layered with fiery ginger, molasses, even rum. Its aroma is intoxicating, begging to be paired with warm spices like cinnamon, ground ginger and cloves.

Like brown sugars, it can be dense and hard, so microwave it for about 20 seconds, then chop it up with your heaviest cleaver.

This bold sugar is a perfect match for spring's most astringent offering, rhubarb. Every spring, those crimson stalks beat back winter's gray. I make a big jar of rhubarb compote, laced with fresh ginger, the Indian spice mix garam masala, orange zest and the tiniest dusting of red chili flake. It tops everything from pork chops to my morning yogurt.

This brave little compote has been missing a vital component until now: a sugar as pure as spring sunshine with enough fire to subdue rhubarb's sour side.

Start to finish: 20 minutesServings: 8Piloncillo is usually available wherever your supermarket stocks sweeteners or Latin American ingredients.2 pounds rhubarb, diced1½ cups chopped piloncilloZest and juice of 1 navel orange2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger1 teaspoon garam masala (or pumpkin pie spice)Pinch of red chili flakesHefty pinch kosher saltIn a medium skillet over medium-low, combine all ingredients. Simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the rhubarb breaks down. Taste for seasoning and adjust according to your palate.Cool slightly before serving. Refrigerate leftovers.