Outdoor cooks and backyard grills are sending beguiling fragrances through the neighborhoods. For an incredible side dish, try grilled red and Savoy cabbage with Roquefort and celery seed dressing from "BBQ Bistro," by Karen Adler and Judith Fertig.

You don't need a clock to know it's dinner time in the neighborhood as the beguiling fragrance from one grill after another winds its way past our kitchens.

Sure, there are hardy souls who tackle outdoor cooking in parkas and ski hats. But for many of us fair-weather cooks, now is the time for grilling.

This couldn't come soon enough for me as I page through grilling books the way others do seed catalogs.

Will this be the season of grilled vegetables in all their colorful forms? Or will I lean toward marinades and brines?

Then there are the flavorful twists of familiar favorites with dry rubs of blended spices.

No need to leave out any of them. Let's get grilling.

Serves 4To toast cumin seeds, place in a dry pan over medium heat and warm until fragrant. This will make about 3/4 cup marinade, more than you will need for this single dish.3 ounces red chiles, seeded and roughly chopped5 to 6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped3 tablespoons mirin (Japanese rice wine)2 tablespoons red wine vinegar2 teaspoons sea salt1 heaping teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted½ teaspoon dried oregano¼ cup light olive or sunflower oil4 (7-ounce) hanger steaksOlive oil, for brushingSea salt and freshly ground black pepperIn a small food processor, combine chiles, garlic, mirin, vinegar, 2 teaspoons sea salt, toasted cumin seeds, oregano and 1/4 cup oil. Blend to a smooth, wet paste. (Use immediately or refrigerate up to a week.)Put the steaks in a large bowl and toss with 4 tablespoons marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight.Half an hour before you are ready to cook, take the steaks out of the refrigerator and let them come to room temperature. Light the grill and let the flames die down before starting to cook. If cooking indoors, heat a griddle pan until very hot.Scrape the marinade off the steaks and pat dry with paper towels. Brush them with a little olive oil, season lightly with salt and pepper, then grill them for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until cooked to medium-rare. They should feel a little springy when pressed.Remove from the heat and brush with a little of the unused (fresh) marinade). Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 8Grilled wedges of red and green cabbage taste incredible. If you love Roquefort cheese, add more as you like. If you don't care for Roquefort (heaven forbid), skip the cheese or substitute a French feta. Napa cabbage is a delicious substitute for either of the cabbages.¾ cup vegetable oil1/3 cup cider vinegar2 tablespoons sugar1 teaspoon celery seeds½ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon ground white pepper¼ teaspoon dry mustard2 garlic cloves, minced1 small head red cabbage, quartered lengthwise1 small head Savoy cabbage, quartered lengthwiseOlive oil for brushingKosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper8 ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbledCelery seed dressingIn a bowl, combine the vegetable oil, vinegar, sugar, celery seeds, salt, pepper, mustard and garlic; whisk to blend. Set aside.VegetablesPrepare a medium-hot fire in your grill. Brush the cut sides of the cabbages with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.Grill on the cut sides of the cabbage, turning once, until browned with good grill marks and warm and supple in the middle, about 5 minutes per side.Place cabbages on a platter and drizzle with dressing and sprinkle with cheese.

Makes 2 cupsThis is a chunky dressing that makes each bite of a salad taste different. The dressing is also good spooned over a steak and sprinkled with crumbled blue cheese, or dolloped onto a lamb chop with some feta.1 medium fennel bulb, outer layer, stalks and fronds removed, root end trimmed of brown bits1 small red onion (about ¼ pound), cut into ½-inch thick rounds1 small head radicchio (outermost leaves removed, bottom trimmed of brown bits, quartered lengthwise) and cut into ½-inch thick wedges½ cup extra-virgin olive oil3 tablespoons sherry vinegar1 teaspoon Maldon or another flaky sea salt1 small garlic clove, very finely choppedA five-finger pinch of fresh mint leavesA five-finger pinch of fresh marjoram leavesHalve the fennel bulb lengthwise and cut each halfway through the root nub (so the wedges stay intact) into about 1-inch-thick wedges.Heat a grill or heavy grill pan over high heat until it’s good and hot, about 5 minutes.Reduce heat to medium and add fennel, onion and radicchio. Cook, turning vegetables over occasionally, until fennel and onion are lightly charred in spots and cooked through, but still have a little bite, about 20 minutes. The radicchio is done when the stems are tender but still have a little bite, the leaves are wilty, the tips crackly, about 15 to 20 minutes.As they finish, pop the grilled vegetables into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap until they’ve cooled fully. They’ll steam a bit and cook some more as they cool. Once they’ve all cooled, chop the vegetables into a mix of about 1/2-inch pieces, some smaller and some larger.Pop the vegetables back into the bowl, add the oil, vinegar, salt and garlic, and stir really well. Toss the mint and marjoram together on a cutting board, give them a rough chop and stir them into the dressing.