Kedgeree, a rice and fish dish, is a classic English breakfast dish that traces its roots several hundred years back to India's rice-and-lentil comfort food, khichri.

I buy more fresh salmon than I need for dinner. Not because I'm lured by the mammoth slabs sold at warehouse clubs or its, well, salmon color.

It's because salmon's texture and richness work well oven-roasted or grilled. Those same qualities make the leftovers perfect for a second meal.

I've flaked leftover salmon, mixed it with crumbs, seasonings, chopped green onions and egg, then shaped it into patties before pan-frying. Or I toss leftover salmon in a green salad.

But when I have a substantial amount of leftover cooked rice, I make my version of the fish-and-rice dish called kedgeree.

Kedgeree (kedge-uh-REE) is a classic English breakfast dish that traces its roots several hundred years back to India's rice-and-lentil comfort food, khichri.

Kedgeree is often made with haddock and topped with hard-cooked eggs, yet every TV celeb cook has a version. There's Jamie's (with ginger, garlic, curry powder) and Gordon's (salmon, quail eggs) — do we really need last names here? — and Delia's (that's Smith, TV cookery legend).

Although kedgeree is often consumed early in the day, Jamie endorses it as a lunch or light supper dish. I agree.

Kedgeree is a flexible recipe. I've not made the dish with haddock. Instead, I usually begin with about 12 ounces of leftover cooked salmon. If you don't have that, canned salmon (drained, skin and bones removed) works.

Serve with a couple quartered hard-cooked eggs if you want; I don't.

Out of frozen peas? If you have zucchini, cut some into large dice and stir into the onions just before adding the rice.

Spice as you like, with chopped chilies or curry powder.

Enjoy.

Prep: 15 minutesCook: 10 minutesMakes: 4 servings2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 small yellow onion, finely diced6 cups leftover cooked rice12 to 14 ounces cooked salmon, skin removed, flaked, or 1 can (14 ounces) salmon2 cups frozen peas1/3 cup good chicken or vegetable broth¾ teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper¼ cup each, chopped: cilantro, parsley1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt1 tablespoon each: mayonnaise, lemon juice1 teaspoon finely minced garlicHeat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the rice and cook, stirring once or twice, 2 minutes.Add the flaked salmon, peas, broth, salt and pepper to taste.Cover; heat the mixture through over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the chopped herbs.For the sauce, blend the yogurt with the mayonnaise, lemon juice and garlic. Serve kedgeree with a dollop of sauce.