Drive almost anywhere in Butler County - if you can afford the gasoline -and you will see new homes being built. Most of the new homeowners will be planting one or more shade trees, and fall is the ideal time to plant them.

Some of the more common shade trees that are 8- to 10-feet-high when planted will be in the range of 25 to 30 feet after 10 years. Honey locust, linden, pin oak, sweet gum and sycamore are trees that reach such sizes and are easy to plant and grow.

The rules for planting trees have changed.

The old way was to dig a hole wider and deeper than the size of the root ball. Add a little organic matter to the soil and a few inches of loose soil. Place the tree in the hole, finish filling in around the root ball. Tamp the soil firmly to remove air pockets and built a soil berm around the planting area to hold water. Remember, that is the old way.

Tree experts found that digging a hole in the soil is like creating a large pot for the tree to grow in. The roots grew only to the edge of the original hole, then the compacted soil stopped further growth. Instead of penetrating the soil, the roots circle the hole. In a few years the tree declines and may die during a summer drought.

A planting hole is no longer used to plant a tree.

The new procedure is to create a growing area that is large enough to accommodate root growth for many years.

First loosen the soil that is three or four times wider than the root ball. This area should be tilled to a depth of 10 to 12 inches.

In the center, dig a hole that is slightly wider than the root ball and exactly the same depth.

Remove any wrapping from the root ball and place the tree in the hole.

Backfill the hole in stages and add water. Do not tamp the soil, but let the water remove the excess air.

Wrapping the stem of the tree immediately after planting is no longer recommended as it provides a habitat for insects and slows the natural thickening of the bark.

A wrap can be applied after the ground freezes and should be removed when the ground thaws in the spring.

This will help guard against mice and other critters gnawing on the bark.

It also helps prevent sunscald, a condition in which late winter sun heats the south side of the trunk, causing the back to split when the temperature drops quickly.

Tree experts at Penn State discourage the practice of staking a newly planted tree.

A chemical in the stem of the tree called cytokinin causes the cells in the stem to thicken and enlarge, strengthening the tissue. The chemical is active only when the stems move.

When the tree is staked, the stem doesn't move and the cytokinins never develop. The artificial support causes weak, thin caliber trees.

Mulching is recommended instead of making a berm around the tree to hold water. The mulch should be about 2 inches thick and must be several inches from the trunk of the tree.

Mulch in contact with the bark is the perfect habitat for insects and small critters such as mice and voles. It will also keep the tender bark moist and may induce rotting of the bark.

Pete Hale of Sarver is a Master Gardener with the Penn State Master Gardener progam.