Asian noodles are finding their way into more and more supermarkets. They make a great pantry staple if you know how to use them. Unlike Italian pasta, which is categorized by shape, dried Asian noodles are categorized by ingredient. Here's a primer:

Slender Japanese noodles, made from wheat dough moistened with sesame-seed oil, have a delicate taste and texture and are usually served cold.Brownish-gray soba noodles are made with buckwheat or a mixture of wheat and buckwheat. About the same thickness as spaghetti, they're good hot or cold.Fat, glutinous udon noodles, also sometimes made of corn flour, are popular in soups.Thin, curly ramen noodles are best known here in instant soup mixes.Cooking method: Boil in unsalted water (most Asian noodles are high in sodium) until tender but slightly firm at the center. They usually are added to a stir-fry or soup, so it's important to not overcook them.

Made from rice flour, these translucent noodles come in various widths and sizes including vermicelli and rice sticks (shaped like linguine). They easily absorb sauces and broths.Cooking method: Rice noodles are not cooked, but soaked in boiling water until tender and springy (usually 15 minutes). There's no need to soak first if adding to soups.

Also called bean-thread or glass noodles, they are made from vegetable starch (often from mung beans). Like rice noodles, they are absorbent and are often used in stir fries and soups.Cooking method: Same as rice noodles.

Rice and cellophane noodles are great deep-fried. Here's how:Heat about two inches of vegetable oil in a large pot or wok to 375 degrees.Add the dried noodles (not soaked), a few strands at a time. When the noodles hit the oil they puff into fat, white strands and curl into spirals.Drain on paper towels, and use in a salad or as a snack with a sprinkling of salt. Don't make more than you'll use at one time; leftovers get stale and tough.

Open a bottle of sauvignon blanc such as a 2005 Markham from Napa Valley to serve with this salad, which I adapted from chef Michael Bloise of Miami Beach's Wish restaurant. Rice sticks and fish sauce are available at Asian groceries and many supermarkets.8 ounces rice sticks1 tablespoon peanut oil2 large garlic cloves, finely grated2 tablespoons sugar1¼ teaspoons red pepper flakes½ cup fresh lime juice2 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce4 cups shredded, poached chicken (from about 3 chicken breasts)1 cup finely grated carrot2 bunches watercress, coarse stems discarded1 bunch basil, stems discarded and leaves torn1 bunch mint, stems discarded and leaves torn1 cup cashews, coarsely choppedPlace noodles in a large, heat-proof bowl. Pour on boiling water to cover. Set aside for 15 minutes, until tender and springy (not al dente). Drain and toss with peanut oil.Cover and chill.Arrange noodles on a platter or divide among 6 plates. Place the chicken, carrot, watercress, basil and mint in a large bowl. In a small bowl, mix the garlic, sugar, pepper flakes, fish sauce and lime juice.Pour half this dressing over chicken mixture and toss. Arrange in the center of the noodles. Top with the cashews, and serve remaining dressing separately.Makes 6 servings.Per serving: 316 calories (39 percent from fat), 13.8 g fat (2.7 g saturated, 7.5 g monounsaturated), 34.2 mg cholesterol, 19.4 g protein, 30.2 g carbohydrates, 2.2 g fiber, 526.6 mg sodium.