This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in August 2018 shows a New England fi sh chowder in Brookline, Mass. This recipe for New England fish chowder appears in the cookbook “All-Time Best Soups.”

This modern fish chowder honors its simple roots by showcasing moist, tender morsels of fish in a delicate broth. Searching for a route to fresher, cleaner flavors, we got a bonus: shorter cooking time.

We started by gently poaching meaty cod in water flavored with salt pork, onions, and herbs, which created a quick fish stock and eliminated any chance of over-cooking the fish. We added whole milk to this stock, as opposed to other rich dairy like half-and-half and heavy cream, to keep the chowder light and fresh-tasting and preserve the flavor of the cod.

A tablespoon of cornstarch whisked into the milk before adding it to the pot coated its proteins, preventing it from curdling as the soup simmered. To keep the salt pork flavor from becoming overbearing, we left it in two large chunks that didn't produce as much browning and used butter to sweat the onions. Haddock, or other flaky white fish, may be substituted for the cod.

Garnish the chowder with minced fresh chives, crisp bacon bits, or oyster crackers.

Servings: 6-8Start to finish: 1 hour2 tablespoons unsalted butter2 onions, cut into ½-inch dice4 ounces salt pork, rind removed, rinsed, and cut into 2 pieces1½ teaspoons minced fresh thymeSalt and pepper1 bay leaf5 cups water2 pounds skinless cod fillets, sliced crosswise into 6 equal pieces1½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice2 cups whole milk1 tablespoon cornstarchMelt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions, salt pork, thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and bay leaf; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add water and bring to simmer. Remove pot from heat, gently place cod fillets in water, cover, and let fish stand until opaque and nearly cooked through, about 5 minutes. Using metal spatula, transfer cod to bowl.Return pot to medium-high heat, add potatoes, and bring to simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender and beginning to break apart, about 20 minutes.Meanwhile, whisk milk, cornstarch and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. Stir milk mixture into chowder and return to simmer. Return fish and any accumulated juices to pot. Remove pot from heat, cover, and let stand for 5 minutes. Discard salt pork and bay leaf. Stir gently with wooden spoon to break fish into large pieces. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.