In a recent column, I looked at the use of blade baits, those tightly vibrating metal baits of the Silver Buddy vein, for catching lake-dwelling bass during the fall and early winter. Blade baits also excel for river bass.

Much of what was said about lake bass also applies to river bass, which due to their habitat preferences, tend to be smallmouth. The same attention to keeping the lifts short and sharp, the pauses lengthy. Sometimes I’ll “hang a blade” for perhaps half-a-minute. And yes, the effectiveness of doing so might have been learned by the strike you get when you’ve stopped working a lure to chat with your partner. When the fish talk, it’s wise to listen.

When river bass are somewhat active, they’ll move shallow, targets worthy of Ned Rigs, tubes, hair jigs and the like. But as water temperatures drop throughout the fall and into early winter, the fish will likely be in the nearby depths, wintering holes where they’ll hunker down for the next two to three months. Anything over 10 to 12 feet deep is blade country.

Wintering holes will have current, mild current, but still current. A top tactic is to drift along with the light current, fishing the blade just off bottom. Drifts that put the boat over the deep side of a ledge or drop off are productive.

It’s critical to keep an eye on the sonar so you can adjust for depth changes. By not doing so. you’ll be fishing well over the bass when the bottom falls off, and the fish won’t move up to eat the bait. And if it gets shallower, you’ll be dredging bottom.

Rivers play host to a variety of gamefish species, ones that tend to collect in these same areas this time of year. And they respond favorably to blade baits. So, depending on what lives in your rivers, don’t be surprised by walleyes, northern pike, muskies, whatever, showing up on the end of your line.

It’s also worth noting – and this applies to both lakes and rivers – that blade baits of different designs produce various actions. Most of the time I stick with the classic Silver Buddy profile. But I’ve had success with Reef Runner Cicadas, which are built around a willow leaf blade. And Acme V Rod and Rapala Rap-V blades have their fans. The point is, as is the case in so many fishing situations, it often pays to experiment.

If there’s a downside to blade baits, it is that they are snaggy. But combine some patience along with the proper tools and you’ll be able to set most of those hung lures free.

The first step, when feeling that a lure is snagged, is to resist the desire to rear back to free it. Most times, this only sinks the hooks deeper. Instead, lightly giggle the rod tip, an action that often shakes it loose. If it doesn’t, move the boat in a direction opposite of where your line is entering the water, all the while shaking the rod tip. This change in angle will often unsnag the blade.

If this fails, it’s time to bring out the lure retriever. I favor the “Hound Dog” style, the heaviest you can find. Position the boat so you’re directly over the lure. Clip the retriever to the line and allow it to descend while keeping the fishing line tight. Often, the impact of the tool hitting the lure will free it. If not, lift pull up on the retriever cord a couple of feet, then release it to bang the lure again.

Pulling up on the rod the same time the tool hits the lure will often do the trick. Occasionally, the lures hooks will become imbedded in the retriever cord, thus freeing it.

When all else fails, give the fishing line a steady pull, hoping for the best.

Jeff Knapp is an outdoors columnist for the Butler Eagle